Tonearms for turntables
Where hundredths of a millimetre and tenths of a gram decide the sound.
The tonearm is the link between turntable and cartridge. It guides the stylus through a groove whose excursions often measure only a few thousandths of a millimetre, holds it at the correct angle and drains away resonances instead of feeding them back into the signal. A good tonearm is what turns a good cartridge into a great one. Here you will find tonearms for your turntable, together with the knowledge to choose the right one and set it up correctly.
A pivoted tonearm traces an arc across the record. Only at two points is the stylus exactly tangential to the groove.
Why the tonearm shapes the sound so much
What a tonearm does
When a record is cut, the cutting stylus moves in a straight line from the edge to the centre. A pivoted tonearm, by contrast, swings around its bearing and traces an arc. The deviation between the stylus and the ideal tangent is called the tracking error angle. It causes distortion that can become audible, especially towards the inner grooves. The offset angle (the angled headshell) and the overhang (the stylus reaches slightly beyond the centre of the platter) keep this error small.
Correctly aligned, the stylus is exactly tangential at two null points. Where they lie is set by the chosen geometry. The best known are Baerwald (Löfgren A), which spreads the error evenly across the whole side, Löfgren B with lower average distortion, and Stevenson, which focuses on the critical inner grooves. To the IEC standard, the Baerwald null points lie at 66.0 and 120.9 mm from the centre.
A tonearm therefore has three tasks: to guide the stylus with minimal friction, to hold it steadily at the correct angle and to drain vibrational energy quickly into the turntable instead of letting it ring on in the armtube. Sound quality is therefore not a matter of a single figure, but of the interplay between bearing quality, armtube rigidity and damping, precise geometry and the match with the cartridge.
Designs compared
Almost all tonearms belong to one of four designs. Each follows its own philosophy, and none is simply the best. What matters is what suits your turntable, your cartridge and how much you enjoy fine adjustment.
There are also variants such as knife-edge bearings or magnetically stabilised bearings. They pursue the same goal: to make the arm's movement as free and at the same time as controlled as possible.
9, 10 or 12 inches
The longer the arm, the flatter the arc the stylus draws across the record. Moving from 9 to 12 inches reduces the maximum tracking error angle by around a quarter. In return, mass and inertia increase, and the arm needs more space on the turntable.
Whether your turntable can take a longer arm depends on the distance between the platter spindle and the arm base. Many turntables designed for multiple tonearms offer dedicated 9- and 12-inch bases for this.
Effective mass & the right cartridge
Arm and cartridge together form a resonant system: the mass of the arm moves on the spring of the cantilever suspension. This resonance should lie between 8 and 12 Hz. Below that, record warps and footfall excite the arm and the stylus wavers in the groove. Above it, the resonance moves into the deep bass and colours it.
f = 159 ÷ √( M × C )
M = effective mass of the arm + cartridge weight + screws (in grams), C = dynamic stylus compliance at 10 Hz in µm/mN.
Example: arm 12 g + MC cartridge 9 g + screws 1 g = 22 g, compliance 12 µm/mN → f = 159 ÷ √264 ≈ 9.8 Hz. Ideal.
A practical note: many Japanese manufacturers state compliance at 100 Hz. For the calculation at 10 Hz, multiply this figure by roughly 1.5 to 2. A detachable headshell or additional weights allow you to adjust an arm's mass deliberately.
Setting up the tonearm: step by step
A carefully set-up arm sounds better than a more expensive one that is only roughly adjusted. The order matters, as each step builds on the previous one. You will need an alignment protractor, a stylus gauge and a little patience.
Mount the cartridge
Using the protractor, align overhang and angle so that the cantilever is exactly parallel to the grid lines at both null points.
Zero-balance the arm
Set anti-skating to zero and turn the counterweight until the arm floats freely. Then set the counterweight scale to zero.
Set the tracking force
Dial in the value recommended by the manufacturer and check it with a stylus gauge at the height of the record surface.
Set anti-skating
Compensates for the force pulling the arm towards the centre of the record. The tracking force value usually serves as a starting point; fine-tune by ear.
Adjust tonearm height (VTA)
With the stylus lowered, the armtube should be parallel to the record. Small corrections shift the tonal balance.
Check azimuth
Viewed from the front, the stylus must sit vertically in the groove; otherwise channel separation and stereo image suffer.
Check the arm lift
When raised, the stylus should sit a few millimetres above the record and descend gently.
After a few hours of play, a check is worthwhile: new cantilever suspensions settle, and the tracking force can change slightly. Every cartridge change means starting the alignment from the beginning.
What to look for when buying
A new tonearm is one of the most effective upgrades for a turntable. To realise its potential, turntable, arm and cartridge should match.
Tonearm cable: the underestimated last metre
A cartridge's signal is extremely small: MC cartridges often deliver only 0.2 to 0.5 millivolts. A good tonearm cable is therefore carefully shielded and carries the ground separately. For MM cartridges, low cable capacitance also matters, as together with the input capacitance of the phono stage it affects the treble response.
Not sure which tonearm suits your turntable and cartridge? Send us the models and we will gladly help you choose.
Frequently asked questions about tonearms
What does a tonearm do on a turntable?
The tonearm carries the cartridge and guides the stylus through the groove. It holds it at the correct angle, ensures the correct tracking force and drains away resonances. Bearing quality, rigidity and geometry of the arm clearly influence resolution, imaging and bass.
Can I change the tonearm on my turntable?
On many turntables, yes. The new arm must fit the mounting hole or arm base, for example a Rega mounting hole or SME cut-out, and the mounting distance and height must be right. On complete turntables with a permanently fitted arm, a change is usually not intended.
Which is better: a 9 or 12 inch tonearm?
A 12-inch tonearm has a lower tracking error angle, around a quarter less than a 9-inch arm, and often sounds calmer and more spacious. It is, however, heavier and needs more space. A 9-inch arm fits almost any turntable and pairs well with most cartridges.
Which cartridge suits my tonearm?
What matters is the interplay between the effective mass of the arm and the compliance of the cartridge. The resonant frequency should lie between 8 and 12 Hz. It is calculated as f = 159 divided by the square root of total mass in grams multiplied by compliance in µm/mN.
How do I set anti-skating correctly?
Anti-skating compensates for the force that pulls the tonearm towards the centre of the record during playback. As a starting point, the same value as the tracking force is usually chosen. Fine-tuning is done by ear or with a test record: distortion on one channel only indicates too much or too little anti-skating.
What is the difference between a unipivot and a gimbal tonearm?
A gimbal tonearm runs in two pairs of ball bearings and is therefore very stable. A unipivot tonearm rests on a single point, has practically no bearing friction and is regarded as particularly finely resolving, but requires careful azimuth adjustment.
Is a tangential tonearm worth it?
A tangential tonearm guides the stylus in a straight line, just as the record was cut. There is therefore no tracking error angle and no need for anti-skating. On the other hand, the mechanics are more complex and set-up takes more effort. For purists with a suitable turntable, it is a fascinating solution.
Do I need a special tonearm cable?
The cartridge signal is very small and susceptible to interference. A well-shielded phono cable with a separate ground wire reduces hum and interference. With MM cartridges, low cable capacitance is also important because it affects the treble range.
The groove holds more than most turntables ever reveal.
A well-matched, carefully aligned tonearm brings this information to light: a quieter background, firmer bass contours, more space between the instruments. Explore our tonearms above and find the arm that does justice to your turntable and your cartridge.
